It’s Christmas day here, ahead of the US. I’ve tried a handful of times to reach Angie’s sister, but I haven’t had any luck, so it’s a solitary Christmas for me.

Christmas music is everywhere here, but this seems to be mostly for the benefit of the ex-pats and travellers. For the Thai people, Christmas is merely a reason to engage a passing foreigner with a smile and a holiday greeting. For those who are selling things, Christmas provides something to spice up the sales pitch: “Get something for mom, for wife.”

I heard many variations on that theme today. I went to the giant, sprawling weekend market and browsed handicrafts, clothing and kitchenware. I bought some gifts for friends and family and a pair of sandals for myself. I also sampled a number of small snacks, including a papaya salad with “pickled crab” and some amazing barbecued prawns, which I dipped in the ubiquitous chili sauce (the reason Singaporeans think Thai food is too “sour”). Seeking a little relief from the heat, I also had some coconut ice cream served with sticky rice, white gelatin cubes, roasted peanuts and a drizzle of condensed milk. White and icy, it was definitely the closest thing to snow I’ll find this season.

My dear friends and family, you are on my mind, and I hope you have a beautiful day when the sun rises on your side of the planet.

Bangkok is a bustling, crowded, smoggy, lively, dirty, vibrant place, on par with any major world city. The roads are packed with cars, Tuk Tuks and little 125CC motorcycles. The sidewalks are filled with street vendors selling everything from knockoff designer products to hill tribe handicrafts.

So far, I’ve managed to navigate around the city via an assortment of modes. The Sky Train is easy but limited. I was able to take it to the river, where I boarded a boat up the river to the massive Wat Pho temple. Thailand’s oldest and most famous Thai (or “ancient”) massage school is there. Due to its popularity with tourists, it has moved to a more prominent location and raised its prices. Still, 300 baht (about US$8.50) for an hour of pulling and pummelling is a bargain.

From there, I hailed a Tuk Tuk and, with the help of one of the guides at Wat Pho, negotiated a ride to another wat (temple), then to Golden Mountain, then to the Sky Train station at Siam Square – all for 40 baht. Part of the deal was that we’d stop at a touristy shopping center, for which the Tuk Tuk driver would get a petrol coupon.

As for my chosen digs, I avoided the famous backpacker lane at Khao San Road in favor of slightly higher-end accommodations. The downside of that decision is that among the backpacker crowd, it’s usually pretty easy to connect with other travellers to find tour and meal companions.

There are plenty of eager companions among the locals, but the ones who volunteer for this duty are mostly working girls, and that’s not really my scene. Every bar and club seems to have a welcoming committee of these, although I can’t say for sure it’s not a couple of neighborhoods in particular. Last night I wandered the areas around Sukhumvit and Silom roads. Maybe I’ll branch out a little more tonight.

There are, of course, different degrees of “working”. Some expect simply to be treated to a good time – a nice meal, drinks, a gift or two. Others depend on the money they get for offering additional services, for which they typically earn more than the average Thai civil servant.

Well, I’m off to Thailand, Laos and Vietnam until 9 January. I had been planning to buy a motorcycle in Hanoi for my trip down the coast (apparently you can get a reliable Russian-made bike for less than US$500), but Tuesday’s Straits Times cover story was all about fatal motorcycle accidents, which has made me think twice. It seems that every time I get close to becoming a rider, I see a motorcycle accident, or read about one.

Anyway, motorcyclist or not, I’m off now. I’m not anticipating being able to update this blog very often while I’m away, but don’t be a stranger anyway.

Happy holidays my many friends. I love you all.

As a postscript, I registered my trip with the US State Department, and I received the following messages…
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